Gallery: Psar Thmei, Phnom Penh’s Central Market
There’s little I enjoy more when travelling than a visit to a local market. Large or small there is always plenty to see, and therefore to photograph. And you can gain great insights into the way of life in the country. What do local people eat? How do they dress? How indeed do they shop?
Phnom Penh’s Central Market, properly known as Psar Thmei (the ‘new market’), delivered on all counts. It was built in the 1930s in the Art Deco style as part of French plans to expand and modernise the city. Today it sits in the middle of a busy intersection in the heart of the city, so even crossing the road to get to it is an adventure.
You mustn’t try to wait for a break in the traffic or you will still be standing there at bedtime! Instead take a deep breath and step out slowly into the steady stream of vehicles. Don’t try to hurry; take your time so drivers can easily see you, and they will part around you. Or so we were told, and it seemed to have worked as we were still in one piece when we reached the far side of the road!
At the heart of the building is a huge central dome, 26 metres high, which is claimed by some sources to be one of the ten largest domes in the world. This central area is full of glitzy jewellery stands selling gold and silver as well as ornaments made from semi-precious stones alongside cheaper items.
From this central dome four wings extend, and beyond them the building is surrounded by a maze of stalls under green awnings, which lend an unusual colour cast to the goods on display. These are a mixture of those aimed at local shoppers (food stalls, cheap clothing, electrical goods, toys, hairdressers etc.) and at tourists (crafts, souvenirs, and clothing more aimed at their tastes).
Some of the photos in the gallery below I took with permission; for others I was ‘shooting from the hip’.
Crossing the road to the Central Market in Phnom Penh
One of the entrances to the market
Jewellery stalls and clock under the central dome
Food sellers near one of the entrances
Local delicacies: fried crickets and cocoons
Fashion stall
Fashion stall mannequins
The shoe repair stall
Repairing sandals
A stallholder’s children
Time for a chat
When shopping is done
I visited Phnom Penh in February 2020, just before the pandemic put a stop to travel for a while
36 Comments
Teresa
Interesting! So much like the Philippines.
Sarah Wilkie
That’s interesting to hear Teresa. I’ve never been to the Philippines, although I would like to one day!
Julie
When I was in Cambodia, I recalled seeing these bugs in food stalls at markets and on the road. I still have yet to try it.
Sarah Wilkie
It’s an interesting experience but not one I’m eager to repeat – too much dry papery shell and not enough flavour for me!
wetanddustyroads
I’m with you on this one Sarah – I do like a market … even the small local market here in our own town! Sometimes, I will buy a coffee and croissant and find a place to sit down – great for people watching! Now, coming back to your post … By just crossing that road, I would have been exhausted and it will be a definite NO to the crickets and their friends.
Love your pictures, it really captures the vibe of the market!
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks so much, I’m glad you enjoyed your virtual market visit – and no need for you to cross the road 😆 Actually it wasn’t as bad as it looks. The secret is not to stop when you see vehicles approaching as they will be steering around and behind you and if you stop you could be just where they were planning to go to avoid the moving you!!
restlessjo
Although I love looking at your photographs, Sarah, I’m never at home or comfortable in a market, but I do completely agree with Margaret that shrink-wrapped goods benefit nobody.
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks for the nice words about the photos Jo 🙂 I’m surprised you don’t feel comfortable in a market – do you mean ANY market or just ones as ‘alien’ as this? Don’t you have good markets in Portugal? I’m sure I’ve seen them, and the produce is so good there they must be great places to shop, without a shrink-wrap in sight!
restlessjo
Markets in general, really, Sarah. Just one of my peculiarities. I’m always mildly embarrassed picking and choosing produce but you’re right. There are lots of great ones to choose from here 🤭💕
Sarah Wilkie
🤗 😘
Susanne Swanson
What an adventure! I know it’s a cultural thing but it’s hard for me to look at those fried crickets and cocoons without wincing a bit! Did you try them?
Sarah Wilkie
We didn’t try them here – I would be very wary of food cooked in such an environment. But we did try some on our street food tour (https://www.toonsarah-travels.blog/exploring-the-street-food-of-phnom-penh/) when we knew that our guide had selected a ‘safe’ stall for us!
Susanne Swanson
Oh wow! Great pictures of some unusual culinary choices! I’m afraid I would only have tried the familiar – prawns!
Tales From My Lens
What great insights on the daily life there. Great photos to show the markets. I agree, the markets are places to go and get to know things.
Rose
I love the exhilaration of observing new people and cultures, but I tend to get a bit overwhelmed in busy markets – too many people and too many things. It’s probably because I haven’t traveled enough to really be able to center myself, and maneuver in these settings.
Sarah Wilkie
They can be a bit manic and overwhelming, but I find I rather enjoy the sensation of senses overload!
Amy
Wonderful photos! Market is always a fun, busy and active place. 🙂
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks Amy. I always look for markets when I travel, they’re bound to be a good source of photos and also tell you a lot about a country 😀
ladysighs
I always feel so rushed when shopping. Walking with you through this market was fun.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you 😊 Visiting a market in a foreign country is so different from regular grocery shopping at home! I come not to buy but to soak up the atmosphere and take photos – lots of photos!
Annie Berger
Your post brought back great memories for both Steven and me! We so enjoyed the market’s local flavor and also the cheap prices, we returned a second time.
Sarah Wilkie
We weren’t shopping so I didn’t check the prices but I can imagine that they are very cheap compared to those at home!
maristravels
Yes, absolutely!
the eternal traveller
We love exploring local markets and buying fresh food. Although I think I would pass on the crickets and cocoons.
Sarah Wilkie
We weren’t tempted to try these but we did sample them at a stall recommended as safe by our guide – an interesting experience but not one I’d want to repeat too often!
margaret21
This reminds me so much of markets in South Korea. I do hope the market tradition continues for many years. In SK, the children of market traders and food stalls and restaurants were being educated to rise beyond what their parents do, and who can blame them? But it’ll be sad to see this vibrant part of city life disappear.
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, I think that’s a trend everywhere. It’s hard to criticise parents who want a better life for their children but it’s also hard to see traditions watered down or disappear. But i’ve sometimes felt there’s a temptation for us as tourists to want people to cling on to traditions for our benefit, almost as spectators, rather than see them have access to the modern life improvements that we ourselves enjoy.
margaret21
Fair point. But shrink wrapped meals on a supermarket shelf aren’t great for anyone!
Sarah Wilkie
An equally fair point! I would always support the continuation of a thriving market, whether at home or abroad. My remark was a more general one. I think we all, me included, risk romanticising the relatively simple lives of other people. We’re inclined to resent, to some extent at least, what we see as global homogenisation but which to them is an opportunity to make their tough lives easier.
margaret21
Yes, it’s a hard one. Nobody should be denied literacy or a good education, but if all it leads to is, say, life in a call centre, life may not be much better.
CliffClaven
It looks different now. I was in Phnom Penh nearly 30 years ago, just a few months after the UNTAC mission to restore democracy and supervise elections in Cambodia. There was no street lighting in Phnom Penh and getting around involved hopping on the back of a motorbike at a dollar a ride. The Central Market was guarded by young men who looked barely old enough for the Kalashnikovs they cradled. The Tuol Sleng prison was the most harrowing site I have visited.
Sarah Wilkie
We travelled around in tuk-tuks when not with a guide. No kalashnikovs in sight! But yes, Tuol Sleng was harrowing – that at least hasn’t changed.
thehungrytravellers.blog
Oh yes, like you we always get drawn into markets, and as you say they are a great indicator of local life. This looks a fabulous one too. We should have been in Phnom Penh in April ‘20…and we’re starting to hope we will finally get there maybe next year. Will definitely had to this market if/when we do.
Sarah Wilkie
I’m sure you’ll love this when you do finally make it to Phnom Penh!
maristravels
We used to think that all towns and cities were beginning to look alike what with chain stores, hotel groups etc., but what is more ubiquitous than even those is the use of the mobile phone, well illustrated in your photograph. We are all equal now in our use of this intrusive piece of technology. Great market scenes.
Sarah Wilkie
Very true, mobile phones are everywhere now. But places still have their unique character, as I hope my photos also show.