Legend has it that all vegetation on the mountain of Ritigala in central Sri Lanka is protected by guardian spirits known as Yakkhas. These are the guardian spirits of the mountain, said to have helped Prince (later King) Pandukhabaya fulfil a prophecy by defeating his eight uncles at the foot of the mountain.
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If Sri Lanka is tear-shaped, Jaffna can be said to lie at the upper point of that tear, just as it starts to fall from the eye. Appropriate perhaps for a region that has seen more than its share of conflict. This northern region was for many years the stronghold of the Tamil Tigers. But today it is as peaceful as any other part of the country and has much to reward those who make the long journey north.
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For many years the northern region of Sri Lanka was the stronghold of the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam, usually abbreviated to LTTE and better known as the Tamil Tigers. But when the civil war hostilities ceased in 2009 visiting the region again became a possibility. It’s a long drive north, but well worth it to see a different side of this island.
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I was never captivated by history at school. Maybe it was the dull manner in which it was taught. Maybe I was unlucky with the teachers I had, unable to bring the past to life. Or maybe it was the focus on kings and queens, generals and politicians, rather than the lives of ordinary people. Certainly it is the latter that most interests me today.
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Jaffna's clock tower was built to commemorate the visit of Albert Edward, Prince of Wales to Ceylon in 1875. In 2013 three golden statues of Tamil kings were added to enhance the surrounding area.
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Cologne's cathedral has a long drawn-out history of construction, starting in 1248 and only finishing in 1880. At that point it was the highest building in the world at 157 metres tall! Today it is the world’s third largest Gothic-style cathedral and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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While Florence is a city of big-hitter sights (the Duomo, the Uffizi, the Accademia), it is also a city of winding streets and picturesque piazzas. A city of hidden gems, street art and welcoming bars and cafés. A city of churches, of monuments and markets. In short, it is Italy.
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I think many of us are drawn to the mysterious. We like to wonder about things only half seen. And we all share a sense of curiosity. In fact, humans evolved to explore the unknown, because doing so helped us survive; to find food and shelter, and to learn how to adapt and thrive.
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Cathedrals often dominate their cities but I’m not sure I have ever seen one do so to the extent that Florence’s Duomo does. Although relatively hemmed in by other buildings, it towers over them. Any viewpoint over the city, whether from one of its towers or from the surrounding hills, will make this obvious.
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To be able to see the wonders of the world abroad; what a privilege that is. And perhaps most of all when those wonders are ancient. To stand among the ruins of buildings that have stood for hundreds of years allows us to witness history brought to life in a way no book or film can ever do.
