A city of palaces built by gentlemen for gentlemen
Benjamin Disraeli, British Prime Minister, on Valletta
Malta’s capital is small but beautiful! Its historic heart sits on a peninsula between two harbours and is protected by a series of fortifications. Inside, the grandeur of many of its buildings reflects the wealth of the Order of Saint John whose Grand Master, Jean de Valette, founded the city to strengthen the Order’s position in Malta and bind the Knights to the island. Hence the city’s original name, La Valette.
The city was designed on a grid system, making navigation relatively easy. However, be warned; the steep hills leading down on either side of the main thoroughfare, Triq ir-Repubblika, turn walking its streets into a bit of a workout!
I actually visited the city twice during my short stay in Malta. The first time was for a walking tour with our Virtual Tourist group and a very good guide, Tony. The second time I was on my own, returning for a closer look at some of the buildings we’d passed the previous day. I also wanted to go inside the cathedral as that visit wasn’t included in our group tour. For the purposes of this post, I’ve merged the two visits to present a coherent (I hope!) route for Jo’s Monday Walk this week. That explains the slightly differing skies in some of the shots of the same sight!
My feature photo shows part of Valletta and was taken from the water during a sightseeing cruise.
The Tritons’ Fountain
On both occasions I arrived by bus from Sliema, alighting near this impressive fountain just outside the city gates. It dates from the 1950s and consists of three bronze Tritons holding up a large basin.
The Tritons’ Fountain
Parliament House
We enter the city through modern gates, designed by Renzo Piano, as was the Parliament House just inside. This was built between 2011 and 2015 as part of a project which also included the gates and the conversion of the ruins of the Royal Opera House into an open-air theatre. The latter was destroyed by a direct hit from a Luftwaffe bomb in 1942.
Parliament House
Parliament House itself has proved a rather controversial design. People have compared the limestone cladding to a cheese grater (it is actually meant to look like honeycomb). And UNESCO have even questioned whether the city should retain its World Heritage status. I’ll stick my neck out and say that I liked it, even though it did seem rather incongruous among the Baroque palaces of the Knights.
Monuments and statues
Between the Parliament House and the site of the old Opera House is a striking modern sculpture of two figures, Francesco Laparelli and Girolamo Cassar. They were the engineers and architects responsible for the planning of Valletta in the 16th century.
Passing Our Lady of Victories Church (to which we will return shortly) we come to an open space with several monuments. They include a number of former Prime Ministers, among them Dom Mintoff and Ġorġ Borg Olivier. Another commemorates the social revolutionary and writer, Manwel Dimech, who challenged the authority of the Catholic Church and colonial government of Malta. The Migration Summit Monument has a more modern design. It commemorates a summit held here in 2015 which brought together European and African leaders to discuss the challenges posed by migration. The knot symbolises unity between the two continents.
Manwel Dimech and the Migration Summit Monument
Auberges and palaces
Valletta is dotted with grand buildings known as Il-Berġa or Auberges. These were the headquarters of the various Langues (administrative divisions) of the Knights of Saint John. They were originally built in a simple Mannerist style, but as the Order became richer many were transformed into a much more ornate Baroque style. Typical of them is the Auberge de Castille which today houses the Office of the Prime Minister of Malta.
The Auberge de Castille
Nearby is another grand palace, this one built as a family home, the Palazzo Parisio. It is most famous for perhaps its briefest occupant, Napoleon Bonaparte, who stayed here for seven days (some sources say only six) after the successful French invasion of Malta in 1798.
Plaque on the Palazzo Parisio
The Palazzo Ferreria, built in Venetian Gothic style, is today home to another government ministry.
Our Lady of Victories Church
This was the first church and first building to be completed in Valletta. It was built to commemorate the victory of the Knights of the Order of St John and the Maltese over the Ottoman invaders during the Great Siege of Malta. Following their victory, in September 1565, their Grand Master Jean de Valette decided to build a new fortified capital city to provide further protection. The city was built with the funds that other European nations provided in gratitude to the Knights. If Malta had fallen to the Ottoman invaders, the rest of the continent would have been vulnerable. A church was deliberately chosen to be the first structure in the city as a mark of gratitude, hence the dedication to Our Lady of Victories.
Having abandoned the guided tour for a bit of individual exploration I was able to go inside the church later in the morning. It was free to enter although I made a donation. It was small but beautiful, especially the ceilings.
Our Lady of Victories Church
Also near here is another church, dedicated to St Catherine of Italy, but this one was closed. The adjacent modern Palm Goddess for Malta sculpture, the work of American artist Michele Oka Doner, was unveiled as part of an international art weekend in 2022.
The Church of St Catherine of Italy and the Palm Goddess for Malta
St. John’s Co-Cathedral
Following Triq ir-Repubblika a little further we come to St. John’s Co-Cathedral in the heart of Valletta. This for me is the must-see sight of the city. As I mentioned, on our guided tour we weren’t able to go inside so when I found myself with a free morning the next day, I returned to Valletta in the hope of doing just that.
St. John’s Co-Cathedral
I had noted the length of the queue to get in on the previous day, so wasn’t sure if I would bother. But when I reached the area where everyone was queuing, I realised that there were three lines: one for group tours, one for regular visitors and one for those with a pre-booked online ticket. The latter was by far the shortest so I thought it was worth seeing if I could buy a ticket on my phone for immediate entry. I could indeed, as it was only the date that needed to be specified. Armed with that ticket I got in within five minutes whereas the main queue would have taken more than thirty, I am sure!
Inside the cathedral
Once inside I found it very impressive rather than beautiful. The ceiling paintings appealed to me most as I’m not a big admirer of polychromatic marble. I started off following the audio guide, downloaded on my phone. But after a while I abandoned that in favour of just wandering and taking photos (permitted without flash).
Central nave and ceiling
One thing I did learn from the guide was that this had started life as a fairly simple Mannerist-style church. As the Order of Saint John became wealthier and wealthier, they started to transform their church into the ornate explosion of colour and decoration that we find inside today.
I spent at least an hour wandering around, taking photos and occasionally checking the guide (which is included in the entrance ticket). I’m sure I missed a lot; you could probably spend a whole morning here and not see everything. But I was satisfied with the amount I did see.
In some of the side chapels
One of the most interesting areas was the collection of Caravaggio paintings, most famous of which is Saint Jerome Writing. There were detailed descriptions, and an effective AV presentation describing his style, compositional techniques etc.
Valletta’s waterfront
I’m now going to jump back to the previous day and our group tour. Soon after passing the cathedral some of us spotted the little tourist train which starts and finishes near here. We decided to break off from the group to take a ride. While Tony was excellent at his job and very informative, it was quite tiring standing for lengthy periods in the hot sun. The train gave us the break we needed and took us on an interesting route around the waterfront on both sides of the peninsula. Taking photos was hard however, although I managed a few.
Fort St Angelo (below) and Fort St Elmo, taken from the tourist train
Valletta street scenes
When we got off the little train I decided on some independent exploration. I was keen to take a few photos without the pressure of keeping up with a group. The gallery below also includes some taken the following day. Together they should give you a sense of the city beyond its famous sights. I was especially taken by the many very old-fashioned looking shops and their signs, a real contrast to the ornate architecture of its palaces and churches.
The streets of Valletta
Two more churches
Deviating from the main street and tackling some of those hills doesn’t only introduce you to those more mundane but very photogenic sights. It also takes you to more of the city’s smaller churches. I visited two. The first was dedicated to Santu Wistin (Saint Augustine in English). This was another of the earlier churches built soon after Valletta was founded. But like Our Lady of Victories it was rebuilt in the Baroque style in the mid 18th century. A mass was in progress when I looked inside, so I just took a couple of quick photos from the back of the church and left.
The Church of Santu Wistin
The other church I sought out, intrigued by the unusual name, was that of St Paul’s Shipwreck. Google had warned me, correctly, that it was closed, but I was still curious to see it. It is on a narrow street, and consequently hard to photograph. However, I squeezed into a shop doorway opposite and managed to get some shots.
St Paul’s Shipwreck Church
A little way along the same street, St Paul’s, more saints are standing watch at the junction where I turned to climb back up to Triq ir-Repubblika. The Maltese wear their religious beliefs on their sleeves, so to speak, and there are similar statues on other corners too.
Saint John and Saint Paul
Pro-cathedral of Saint Paul
I ran out of time to visit Valletta’s other cathedral, the Protestant one dedicated to Saint Paul. A friend who did so told me it was much plainer than St John’s but also much quieter. However I did see its striking bell-tower a number of times. It dominates the skyline in views from the waterfront in Sliema, as it did from our sightseeing cruise around the harbours. I also saw it at night when we had dinner one evening in the restaurant in its crypt, the Undercroft. So I’ll close with a couple of those night shots.
St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral, early evening and at night
I visited Valletta in May/June 2025
58 Comments
leightontravels
A great read, Sarah. We have long wanted to visit Malta. Sigh, perhaps one day. Merging two separate walks into a single sequential route works well, seamlessly connecting landmarks that might otherwise feel disjointed on their own. The city really is an architectural gem, so attractive, the cheese grater made me smile. The art, in all its forms, is nothing less than stunning and I think we’d love that feeling of always being near the water.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you very much Leighton 😊 I reckon you would like Malta, it has some lovely small but historic towns and cities, and plenty of walking.
wetanddustyroads
You captured Valletta perfectly – just like I remember it … or no, even better than I remember it! Some of the monuments look familiar, but others not (like the Migration Summit Monument which came after our last visit in 2013). And it was amazing to see St. John’s Co-Cathedral again. Such beautiful photos Sarah – I especially like the street scenes.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you – I’m glad to have transported you back to Valletta and that it lived up to your memories of it 😀
Annie Berger
I didn’t really need any reminding about how stunning Valletta is, but I liked how you captured images that I missed when we visited. Your last image of St. Paul’s at night is just lovely!
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks so much Annie 😊 You’re right, Valletta is stunning, and there are so many photo opps that I’m not surprised we found different ones!
Monkey's Tale
I can see cheese greater more than honeycomb 😊 i do love painted ceilings and would love both the Victories Church and the cathedral. And I’m with Jo, I love those balconies too. Malta is on the list, so someday we’ll make it. You made Valletta very tempting. Maggie
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Maggie 🙂 You’d really like Malta I think – those balconies are everywhere, although hard (I found) to photograph!
Rose
That was quick thinking, checking your phone to buy a ticket for immediate entry. It’s such a joy to see so many lovely and bright photos of Valletta. The church interiors are so ornate and decorative.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Rose 🙂 I’m glad I thought to do that as I’m not sure I would have had the patience to queue for so long in the heat!
grandmisadventures
It seems Valetta is a place of blending between old and new, history and lore, city and sea
Sarah Wilkie
More old than new in this part at least, which is why the Parliament House was so controversial I guess! But definitely city and sea – being on a peninsula means it is almost surrounded by water and you are never more than a few minutes’ walk from it 🙂
Amy
Valletta is fascinating! Thank you for the beautiful walk through your fabulous photos, Sarah! So much to see, these churches, wow!!
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Amy 🙂 I’m glad to have been able to introduce you to these stumming churches and cathedral!
carabeinsplash
Thank you for this fascinating look at Valetta, Sarah. My husband lived there as a kid and we’d like to revisit some day to refresh some memories for him. Those churches are astounding!
Sarah Wilkie
Glad you enjoyed it 😀 I hope you do get the chance to visit. From what I saw the old part of Valletta can’t have changed much since your husband was a child, though other parts of the island are seeing considerable (and not always attractive) development.
Jane Lurie
Interesting and vibrant photos, Sarah. Thanks!
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Jane, glad you enjoyed them 🙂
Teresa
Malta seems like a wonderful place to visit. Love the churches. There’s so much beauty in such a small island.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Teresa 🙂 Malta has a lot to offer – somewhere to consider on a future trip to Europe perhaps?
Teresa
Just too far from everywhere. Gotta think about it. Thanks Sarah.
Sarah Wilkie
Very near Sicily and southern Italy!
Easymalc
Never been to Malta Sarah but always fancied it, and from your walks Valletta certainly looks like it would have lived up to my expectations. Great pics as always!
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Malcolm 🙂 Yes, I think you would like Malta!
margaret21
Malta’s never particularly been on my ‘must visit’ list, but you make me think again. Though it would be easy to be overwhelmed by Baroque churches!
Sarah Wilkie
It wasn’t on my list either Margaret, until the Virtual Tourist meeting happened to be here, but I’m glad it caused me to go as I really liked Valletta (and Mdina too, which is lined up for a future post!) But there IS a lot of Baroque 😀
margaret21
I could alays keep Baroque as an Optional Extra.
Heyjude
I love Malta and would love another visit if only I didn’t have to fly. Though actually my first visit way back in 1979 was by rail and ferry. But I can’t see the OH going for that either. I never went inside any of the very many churches so thanks for the interiors, some of those ceilings are magnificent. I like the pastel dome in the Church of Santu Wistin.
Sarah Wilkie
Glad to have taken you back virtually at least Jude, and shown you some of the churches 🙂 I would like to have taken more photos in Santu Wistin but I couldn’t disturb the mass goers.
Heyjude
I think I’m very much over churches and cathedrals. You can have too much of a good thing. But nice to have a peek occasionally.
the eternal traveller
We find a guided walking tour gives a great introduction to a new place and the ability to explore further when we have a little more knowledge. You certainly made the most of your time in this lovely city.
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks, and I agree, a walking tour is a great intro to a city. At the time of our tour I had other plans for the following day so didn’t expect to have the chance to return and see more at my own pace – if I’d known I would do that I would maybe have stayed with the tour for longer!
bushboy
A wonderful looking place with great architecture and art. I love the old signs
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Brian 🙂 Yes, you would love all the old signs and building details here!
Sue
Many thanks for your descriptive post on Valletta…I visited briefly on business in 2002, and didn’t see much of the city, so your images were very interesting
Sarah Wilkie
Glad to have taken you back to Valletta Sue, and thank you 🙂
Sue
It was most informative😊
Suzanne
On closer inspection the architecture is stunning and detailed though from a far it looks very plain. Good to have people stirred up in conversation about a differing building design as that’s what it should do. The skyline looks similar to Tauranga’s 😉
Sarah Wilkie
The old buildings are lovely and there are lots of beautiful details. I agree about modern architecture provoking debate 😀
Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter
This looks lovely. I think I’d like to visit Malta, and I’ve just checked and Jet2 fly from Glasgow so, hmmm – food for thought.
Sarah Wilkie
It would make a lovely city break Anabel, or a slightly longer visit if you want to see more of the island. There’s a good bus network and most of them start and finish in Valletta 🙂
Tanja
Thank you for this lovely tour. I visited Valletta too. I was amazed by the interior of cathedral. I loved all the colorful balconies and I spotted a few red phone boxes too
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Tanja 🙂 Yes, I saw red phone boxes and post boxes too, but they’re not so much of a fascination for me of course!
restlessjo
It’s an interesting place, isn’t it? I really love those windows that overhang the streets. I’ve forgotten the name for them, if there is one? I’m very boring when it comes to sculpture and tend to prefer traditional rather than modern. No shortage of grand buildings, and I noted quite a few cranes on the skyline, so there’s obviously a lot still going up or being replaced. St. John’s would probably be my favourite too. Many thanks for the tour, Sarah xx
Heyjude
Have you visited Malta? You’d love it, plenty of churches. The covered wooden balconies are called gallariji. I think that’s the word.
restlessjo
Nope! Another of those on the list. There was always somewhere I wanted to go more. Thanks, Jude xx
Sarah Wilkie
Jude’s right, I think you’d enjoy Malta and I know you’d love the churches Jo 😀 A lot of cranes, yes, and even more so outside the older parts. Far too much construction in parts of Sliema for my liking in fact, and a taxi driver told me he thought Malta would sink into the sea one day under the weight of it!!
thehungrytravellers.blog
Quite a varied city, isn’t it, Sarah…
Sarah Wilkie
Yes – it packs a lot into a small area too!
Anne Sandler
Thank you for the walk and the visit to Valletta. While the churches were certainly beautiful, I really enjoyed seeing the city and its sculptures.
Sarah Wilkie
Glad you enjoyed visiting Valletta with me Anne 🙂
Egídio
Those fortified walls are massive! The city’s architecture and statues are so beautiful.
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, it’s a lovely city – thanks for visiting Egidio 🙂
Rebecca
A charming place! Malta is seriously underrated, and likewise, I enjoyed strolling Valletta and taking in the elegant architecture. 🙂
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Rebecca 🙂 I was very pleasantly surprised by Valletta, as I’d not even thought of visiting Malta until the Virtual Tourist meeting was held there!
Graham Stephen
wonderful!
⬻𓂀✧ 🔺 ✬ღ☆ 🔺 ∞ ♡ ∞ 🔺 ☆ღ✬ 🔺 ✧𓂀⤖
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks Graham 😀
Graham Stephen
🙇♂️