Sri Lanka is a tear-shaped island of mystery and beauty, a paradise on Earth
Arthur C. Clarke
If Sri Lanka is tear-shaped, Jaffna can be said to lie at the upper point of that tear, just as it starts to fall from the eye. Appropriate perhaps for a region that has seen more than its share of conflict. As I mentioned in my previous post, this northern region was for many years the stronghold of the Tamil Tigers. But today it is as peaceful as any other part of the country and has much to reward those who make the long journey north.
With two days to explore Jaffna we were able to spend as much time in the region around the city as we did in the city itself. Today I want to share some of the sights in this diverse region that is now once again welcoming tourists after being ‘off limits’ during the years of civil war.
Kadurugoda Viharaya
The ancient stupas at this site are the remains of a Buddhist monastery. Our local guide mentioned that sixty monks living here around 1,000 years ago had died of food poisoning. According to Wikipedia, this is just one of several legends about this spot:
According to one legend, in the 16th century, Jaffna Peninsula was ruled by a king named Sangili. At that time there were 60 Arhat Bhikkus practicing meditation. Due to harassment from King Sangili, those 60 Bhikkus decided to leave Jaffna and go to India. On their way, they had stayed at the Kadurugoda area to accept alms-giving from local residents. A mushroom curry served to them was poisoned and all of the Bhikkus had died. It is believed that these stupas were constructed with enshrining the relics of those 60 Arhath Bhikkus. Another story says that the 60 Arhath Bhikkus had died due to a famine, which was there for a long time.
The site is tucked between local houses and we had it to ourselves. It’s not possible to walk around, only to view and take photos through a fence. But to be honest there’s not that much to see!
Kadurugoda Viharaya
Point Pedro
This is a small fishing village close to the northernmost point of Sakkotai Cape. We stopped here briefly and I enjoyed taking photos of the colourful boats and fishing nets on the beach.
Fishing boats, nets and a shop at Point Pedro
Nilavarai Well
While this isn’t the most dramatic of Jaffna’s sights it holds a lot of meaning for the country’s Hindus. Its waters are said to be bottomless and appear to be somehow connected directly to the sea. The water is apparently fresh near the top but becomes increasingly salty the deeper you go. It is traditionally believed to have been the work of Rama himself, who created it by sticking an arrow into the ground to assuage his thirst. A small but colourful temple marks the spot.
Nilavarai Bottomless Well
Arulmigu Sri Veerakathi Vinayagar and Urumpirai Karpaha Pillaiyar Kovil Temples
On our way back towards Jaffna after visiting Nilavarai, our guide Champi kindly stopped so we could photograph a couple of temples that had caught my eye on the outward journey. Both are devoted to Ganesh, as the elephants that adorn them make clear. It was these elephants that had caught my eye but having stopped I found plenty more to photograph. In fact I took some of my favourite photos in Jaffna here, including my feature photo which is of Arulmigu Sri Veerakathi Vinayagar.
Arulmigu Sri Veerakathi Vinayagar Temple
Urumpirai Karpaha Pillaiyar Kovil Temple
Manthiri Manai
This ruined building is sometimes known as Jaffna Palace. According to Wikipedia it is believed to be one of the residences of a minister of Cankili, king of Jaffna before the fall of the kingdom to the Portuguese. However the Amazing Lanka website outlines several theories about its history and concludes that it might well have been built as recently as 1890 and may merely have been a gatehouse rather than a palace.
Manthiri Manai
The ruins are clearly not well maintained, and I suspect in the UK entry would be forbidden as they didn’t look 100% safe. But we were able to go in and enjoyed wandering around the various rooms.
And I hope those wanderings, and similar ones around the other sights described above, will qualify as a Monday Walk for Jo.
I visited Jaffna in February 2026
35 Comments
rkrontheroad
The temples are so colorful and such detail. The 60 Arhats is a sad story, either way it’s told.
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, that story is rather sad, and the site felt a bit sad too somehow
equinoxio21
Thanks for the tour in Jaffna, Sarah. (I don’t think I’ll ever go there in person…LOL)
Hindu temples are quite something. The temples in Singapore were a good introduction. (Out hotel was in Little India)
Au revoir
Sarah Wilkie
It would take me a long while to tire of seeing Hindu temples like those – there are so many colourful details to study and photograph!
equinoxio21
It could become a photographer’s obsession to ‘catch’ all the details.
Now when you think of it, most Hindu worshippers probably know ‘who is’ every motif. ‘Oh, yes, that is the second sacred cow of Vishnu. The first one is over there.’
Sarah Wilkie
Absolutely they do – every figure has meaning!
wetanddustyroads
I agree with some of your readers here – the bright colours in Jaffna definitely catch the eye! I mean, even the fishing nets look like a rainbow 😊.
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks so much 😊 Yes, so much colour to capture in this region, and I loved the fishing nets!
grandmisadventures
I just love the explosion of color. The temples are really beautiful and so well preserved
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Meg 🙂 I think they maintain the temples really well, with regular coats of paint. We saw several with scaffolding in places, being repaired or redecorated.
Brenda's Thoughts
What a privilege to visit a place that has been cut-off from visitors for so long. Even with the conflict, it’s interesting to see their temples are still colorful and preserved. I enjoyed your share, Sarah!
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Brenda 🙂 We did see some temples in much scruffier condition, and several with scaffolding undergoing repairs, so I guess the recovery is a work in progress.
Monkey's Tale
Interesting story with the mushroom stupas in Kadurugoda Viharaya. We visited a site near Vizag, India with similar stupas. The story said they left India to live in Sri Lanka. There must be a connection, but the real story will likely never be known. Vizag is on the Indian coast north of Jaffna. It’s not close, but not that far either. Maggie
Sarah Wilkie
That’s very interesting Maggie 🙂 There seem to be several conflicting accounts about these stupas so it’s hard to know what really happened and what is just legend.
Ju-Lyn
Hindi temples are typically colourful and excitingly adorned. This one is spectacular!
How wonderful you could explore palace ruins up close (unlike the stupas which we cordoned off) – that must have been so much fun!
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Ju-Lyn 🙂 Yes, I was happy to be able to wander around that palace and get some close-up photos.
the eternal traveller
You must have been taking photos all day every day, with all this colour and so many wonderful sights to record. It’s all quite lovely.
Yvonne Dumsday
What an amazing trip this was. Thankyou for sharing your experience – and the photographs.
Sarah Wilkie
Glad you enjoyed this Yvonne, thank you 🙂
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Carol – I was taking photos all day but then that’s normal for me wherever we go!
Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter
Hindu temples are so colourful. I love the elephants, and also the boat with eyes.
Sarah Wilkie
It was the elephants that attracted me to these two particular temples among the many we saw in the region! Glad you like the boat too as I was pretty happy with how that shot came out 🙂
EgÃdio
The supas and temples are so exquisite. I was also surprised by the well and its mixture of salty and natural water. On another note, I cannot imagine how long it took you to make sure you had the correct spelling for those names. 🙂
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Egidio 🙂 I confess I cut and paste names like these from trustworthy websites, as otherwise I’m sure I would make mistakes!
margaret21
I do find Buddhist architecture and carvings to be a bit identi-kit, wherever they are found, and from whatever period. There must be a reason, but I haven’t found it yet! All the same, another interesting outing.
Sarah Wilkie
Kadurugoda Viharaya was a Buddhist monastery but these temples are Hindu, the majority religion in the Tamal areas of the country (and thus the source of much of the conflict, when the rest is Buddhist). They do all tend to feature the same colourful representations of their many gods, but often a particular one dominates, depending on the devotion of the particular temple. These are both devoted to Ganesh, hence all the elephants!
Anne Sandler
I can see why you were attracted by the beautiful use of color from fishing nets to monuments. Great images!
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, the colours all over Sri Lanka were vibrant but especially here in the north. Thanks so much Anne 😊
Diana
Regardless of the actual cause of death, what a sad story associated with the stupas.
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, that’s very true, and the place felt quite poignant, being so deserted
Sue
Another fascinating post, Sarah! I would have been with you in the ruins of Manthiri Manai…
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Sue 😊 Yes, you would have loved those ruins!
Sue
😀
restlessjo
I guess Sri Lanka has its own style as well as the general acceptance of Indian deities. The artwork is ‘the same but different’. So many places in our world despoiled by wars. The people eventually recover and move on. What choice is there? Thanks for sharing, Sarah xx
Sarah Wilkie
That’s so true Jo. But in some ways it can be quite encouraging to visit places that were once no-go areas due to conflict and see how they have recovered and rebuilt lives. It doesn’t undo the harm caused but it’s nevertheless evidence that peace can and hopefully will return eventually.