Angkor is perhaps the greatest of Manβs essays in rectangular architecture that has yet been brought to life
Arnold J. Toynbee, historian
Although Angkor Wat is the most famous sight in Angkor, it is not the only one by any means, despite the fact that the two names are often used interchangeably. Angkor in fact means βcityβ and Angkor Wat the βcity templeβ. But there are over a thousand temples, ranging in scale from mere piles of rubble scattered through rice fields to Angkor Wat itself.
Iβm repeating myself with that statement, which first appeared in my post about Angkor Thom. Β It bears repeating, as a reminder of the scale of what was achieved here. We only had time to visit a handful of the temples, but one thing that struck me at all those we saw was the incredible detail in the relief carvings. I thought for this weekβs theme-free Monochrome Madness I would see how these looked in black and white. Why? Because monochrome is often good at highlighting texture and detail, and also because they are naturally of a single colour, i.e. βmonochromeβ.
Some of these details have appeared here before, but in colour. Others should be new to you, I hope. Among them youβll see several examples of the many devata or apsara relief carvings. These are depictions of beautiful women, with ornate hairdos and jewellery, and bare-breasted. Iβve seen different explanations of the difference between the two, but the most common seems to be that apsaras are the dancing figures while devatas are standing still, facing forward as guardians of the temples. So thatβs the explanation Iβve adopted.

Above an entrance door in Angkor Wat

From the Churning of the Sea of Milk relief in the East Gallery, Angkor Wat
Devatas in the Upper Gallery, Angkor Wat


Early morning lights on a devata in the Upper Gallery, Angkor Wat

Relief showing generals riding elephants and foot
soldiers, Bayon Temple
My feature photo was also taken here and shows a pig stuck in the wheels of a cart

A family on foot, Bayon Temple
The woman is carrying a baby on her back, while bottom left you can see a man blowing on a fire beneath a cooking pot

A woman giving birth beneath a table, Bayon Temple

Monkeys picking coconuts as soldiers march beneath, Bayon Temple
On the south gate of Angkor Thom


The Terrace of the Leper King, Angkor Thom

Above a lintel at Ta Prohm

Devata at Ta Prohm
Apsaras at Banteay Kdei


Devatas at Banteay Kdei

Devatas at Banteay Kdei
I visited Angkor in February 2020
44 Comments
Annie Berger
Even though Steven and I were there for a week a bout ten years ago, I had forgotten about the distinction between Angkor and Angkor Wat, Sarah. You captured some lovely images in black and white for your Monochrome theme.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you very much Annie π I think a lot of people are under the impression that the whole area is called Angkor Wat, or that Angkor Wat is the only sight to see there, so I like to mention the difference when I post!
wetanddustyroads
You’re right, Sarah, the detail comes through strongly in your B&W photos … I think the ruins of Angkor are a good option for Monochrome Madness π.
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks so much Corna π I hoped the B&W would enhance the details and was pleased with the result!
equinoxio21
Another wonderful selection Sarah. Angkor (et al) always works well in B&W. I’ve probably seen many of those bas-reliefs. (I did bring back a rubbing of one. In blue, as I think I mentioned before. Much lighter than the original in stone. π)
Angkor is beyond time… (And worth going back…)
ππ»
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you π It was your recent posts in part that prompted me to revisit my Angkor archives.
equinoxio21
Is that right? Angkor is always worth revisiting. (Actually I need to do another post one of these days…)
Smitha V
Beautiful photos, Sarah. It’s so much more clearer in monochrome. Far clearer than when seen with the naked eyes. The churning of milk engraving in Angkor Wat is stunning. Such detailed carving was done in the 12th century. It shows the extent of craftsmanship then. We visited it in September 2023 and enjoyed our trip to this peaceful place.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you very much Smitha π I do think the monochrome helps to bring out the details, especially with the contrast and structure boosted a little. You’re right, the craftsmanship is wonderful!
The Permanent Tourist
Such amazing photos! Black and white really does draw your eye to all of the details.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you very much π These details are pretty clear even photographed in colour but I hoped to bring them out even further with these edits, so I’m glad you liked them.
grandmisadventures
It is just incredible that they carved so much detail out of stone. Beautiful pictures
Sarah Wilkie
And this is just a minute fraction of the reliefs and carvings to be seen in Angkor!! Many thanks Meg π
Monkey's Tale
Angkor is a remarkable place. I don’t think I saw the monkeys picking coconuts relief. I love it! Maggie
Sarah Wilkie
Our guide was very good at pointing out interesting or amusing details on the friezes, including that one, although I’m sure we missed far more than we saw!
Suzanne
Incredibly amazing and yes the detail pops in black and white. The big plus of travel is seeing it first hand, the uniqueness, scents and the feeling of just being there.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank so much Suzanne π Yes, nothing beats being there and seeing these sights for yourself!
the eternal traveller
Everyone we know who’s been here has loved it. On our list for a future trip.
Sarah Wilkie
I know you enjoy ancient history from your posts about Greece so I’m sure you would love it here!
Rebecca
Beautiful! I’ve been meaning to go to Cambodia for the longest time, especially to visit Angkor Wat. Your photos of the details in the walls are impressive, and it’s hard to imagine the amount of time and level of precision that the architects needed to have centuries ago. I see you also visited in February 2020, literally a month before the world closed down– what fortunate timing!
Sarah Wilkie
Many thanks Rebecca πYes, our timing was very fortunate – not only did we just manage to complete our trip before everywhere locked down, but during the time we were in Angkor, China had already closed its borders, so apparently the sites were about 30% down on tourist numbers as so many visit from that one country. It was still very busy at Angkor Wat however!
Graham Stephen
what a relief! π
⬻πα¦βββ‘Β πΊΒ π½πΆπ π πΒ π»ππΎπΉπΆπΒ πΊΒ β‘ββα¦πβ€
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks Graham, and haha (I think!) π
Graham Stephen
β¨ππββοΈ
Marie
Great photos. The relief carvings are made for monochrome. When I was there, I loved the giant heads at Bayon.
Sarah Wilkie
Many thanks Marie π I loved those heads too – in fact, Bayon was my favourite temple, both because of them and the details in its friezes. I’ve featured the heads previously so I decided not to include them here but focus just on some of the smaller details.
Leanne Cole
These looks amazing in monochrome Sarah. There are so many stories there and the childbirth under the table was interesting. Do you know if that was normal or common and why?
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks so much Leanne π I loved all the stories told in those friezes, especially the more human ones. That is one of the details our guide pointed out. This was an army on the march, with wives and children accompanying the soldiers, so I suspect that would have been the only place the poor woman could get a little privacy, but that’s just a guess.
Teresa
This really works well in monochrome. Lovely shots. Wish I can go there one day.
Sarah Wilkie
Many thanks Teresa π I hope you can visit one day, it’s just incredible!
Teresa
I hope so too.
bushboy
Monochrome really enhances these wonderful carvings Sarah
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Brian, I felt it would bring out the details in particular π
EgΓdio
These were made for monochrome. How beautiful they are!
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Egidio, I’m glad you liked seeing them π
restlessjo
The details are so clear in black and white. It must be an awesome site, Sarah xx
Sarah Wilkie
Many thanks Jo π Awesome is a very appropriate word for Angkor!
Anne Sandler
Interesting photos and commentary Sarah.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Anne – it’s a very interesting place π
Sue
Great post, Sarah, with some wonderful details from the temples of Angkor. My favourite image is “Early morning lights on a devata in the Upper Gallery, Angkor Watβ
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks so much Sue π That particular photo is a real favourite of mine, both in this mono version and also the original colour
Sue
Oh, have you shown the colour version before?
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, but some years ago – I had to hunt! It’s here: https://www.toonsarah-travels.blog/lens-artists-challenge-picking-favourites/
Sue
Thanks! And yes, I recall that post, and your Keralan fisherman!