I am conscious of the immense solitude around me. There is nothing that is like me, no creature in whose aspect I might retain a consciousness of my own self, I feel that the limits of my being are being lost in this all-too-powerful nature, and for the first time I have a sense of the divine gift of companionship.
Christiane Ritter, A Woman in the Polar Night
Christiane Ritter spent a winter in the harshest conditions that Svalbard can offer. Living in a tiny hut with her husband and another trapper, but sometimes left alone there for many days. Constant darkness, cut off from the world by snow and ice; her Arctic was not my Arctic. In the comfort of a modern ship, surrounded by other travellers and by a professional team there to keep us both safe and informed, I could grasp only a small sense of what she must have felt here. But a small sense I did get, and I think editing some of my photos in black and white has helped to emphasise what sense of bleakness I did find in this stunning environment.
I previously shared some monochrome edits of photos taken on the first six days of our Svalbard expedition cruise. At the time I promised a further post covering the second half of the trip; this is it.
As always, these photos were originally shot in colour and converted using Nik Silver Efex Pro. My feature image was taken at Vinkelvika, our landing site in Mühlbacherbreen on day ten of our expedition. The remainder below are presented in chronological order. I’m sharing these photos for this week’s theme-free Monochrome Madness.

Day eight
Ice formation at Kræmerpynten, Kvitøya, the easternmost island in the Svalbard archipelago

Day eight
Arctic tern in flight at Kræmerpynten, Kvitøya Island

Day nine
Walrus on the island of Edgeoya

Day nine
Cliffs in the mist, Edgeoya Island

Day ten
Low cloud over Burgerbukta

Day ten
Paierbreen, Burgerbukta

Day ten
Ice formations, Burgerbukta

Day ten
Reindeer vertebra, Vinkelvika

Day ten
Mühlbacherbreen, Vinkelvika
(the small vertical line against the ice, bottom right, is a member of our expedition team, which should give you a sense of the scale of this two kilometre wide glacier)

Day eleven
Mountains above Camp Millar, Varsolbukta, Bellsund

Day eleven
Mountains above Camp Millar, Varsolbukta, Bellsund

Day eleven
Old mining hut, Camp Millar, Varsolbukta, Bellsund

Day eleven
Kittiwakes on a rock, Midterhuken, Bellsund
I visited Svalbard in August 2025
39 Comments
wetanddustyroads
These photos definitely work in B&W. Day 8’s first photo tells a story of a rugged coastline, and I love the ice formations at Day 10. Great photos Sarah!
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks so much Corna ☺️ I’m really pleased you feel these edits work!
Amy
Stunning views and beautifully captured! Excellent in BnW!
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you very much Amy, so glad you liked them 😊
Image Earth Travel
Svalbard looks so desolate but still beautiful. Love the walrus and Paierbreen, Burgerbukta photos in this gallery.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you very much 😊 The walrus is proving popular! I’ll have some more (colour) photos of him and his companions in a future post.
kzmcb
Oh yes, bleak indeed.
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, but I do hope a sense of its beauty comes across too in these images
kzmcb
I found the colour much more beautiful, and possibly less cold if that’s possible. I’m afraid I hate the cold.
Sarah Wilkie
It wasn’t as cold as I’d expected and the warm parka they provide is very effective at keeping it at bay! One day we had +16C and we were all stripping off the parkas!
the eternal traveller
I love your shot of the walrus. How great to see him like that. I know what you mean about having some understanding of the early explorers and trappers. We felt that when we visited Grytviken. We’d already read a lot about Shackleton and his men but being there gave us a deeper sense of what it must have been like for them, although in no way anything like what they experienced.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you 🙂 I’m glad you like the walrus shot. We weren’t able to land near them, as had been planned, because there was a polar bear in the vicinity, so we had to observe and photograph them from a bobbing zodiac! It must have been very special to visit Grytviken and imagine Shackleton and his men exploring in the same area even if he did face much harsher conditions than we have to.
Egídio
Wonderful set! Those low clouds are beautiful.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Egidio 🙂 I love photographing low clouds over mountains!
grandmisadventures
Beautiful pictures- I love the formations of rock and ice. And the walrus on the beach- he’s my favorite
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Meg 😊 I was almost as thrilled to see the walruses as I was the polar bear!
Anonymous
Fine set!
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you
Leanne Cole
The monochrome gives these a sort of old look like we are looking back in time. I love them. I follow someone on YouTube who lives there, I don’t think I could.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Leanne 😊 That’s probably the same person my nephew follows. He sent me a link to her videos and I watched a couple. No, I wouldn’t want to live there either, though I sort of see the attraction for those who do!
Jim Earlam
Wonderful pictures Sarah 😀
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Jim 😊
Teresa
I love the image of the Walrus. These are some amazing shots you have. But I am a colour kind of girl, so for sure I would love to see these in colour.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Teresa 🙂 And don’t worry, you WILL see these in colour too!
Monkey's Tale
Amazing pictures Sarah, the b&w works really well on the lines in the one from Paierbreen. Maggie
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Maggie 🙂 There was some good contrast in that one to work with!
Vicki
Amazing landscape.
One of the most interesting images is that of the ice (in the upper half of the image) almost looking like a roof over the rocks in Day 8
The miners hut is another interesting one. How on earth did they get a varied diet in that extreme location?
I read once that Inuits have a healthy diet, but when they move to lowlands they can quickly develop heart conditions prevalent in modern western nations. And so I imagine the diet of the miner’s hut inhabitants in your photo?
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you very much Vicki 😊 I agree, it’s an amazing landscape indeed! I’m not sure about the miners’ diet or whether they would have even overwintered there (hard to mine in the Arctic winter I suspect) but Christiane Ritter’s book gives a good insight into the winter diet of trappers. They survived mostly on what they could preserve from the warmer weather and of course keeping food frozen wasn’t an issue! Seal meat was a common item, and they had flour and other basics brought with them in quantity, but keeping scurvy at bay was a challenge without any fresh fruit or vegetables. I don’t know how the Inuit manage that.
Suzanne
The image of the arctic tern in flight at Kræmerpynten, Kvitøya Island is stunning as are all of them. You’ve certainly shown us a different world that many of us have never seen. Impressive landscape.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you very much Suzanne 😊 I did a deliberately high key edit of that one and I’m glad you feel it has worked well.
Jane Lurie
These monochromes are wonderful, Sarah, and so fitting for these landscapes. Day 8 with the protruding ice is amazing, I think for the anxiety of its overhang, the contrasts and lines in Day 10 and the birds dotting the rocks in the last. The entire set is a pleasure to view. 👏🏻🙂
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks so much Jane 😊 I always really appreciate any feedback from you and it’s great to hear that you liked these images!
margaret21
Like you, I found the Ritter book really got under my skin. Your pictures show that, despite the bleakness, it’s quite possible to see why the area got under HER skin too. Mind you, August and January are probably rather different beasts ….
Sarah Wilkie
Gosh yes – I can’t fathom how it would be to stay here at that time of year even with more modern comforts than she had! Thank you again for recommending that book 🙂
Anne Sandler
Outstanding black and white images Sarah! Day eight is simply stunning.
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks so much Anne 😊 That shot is one of my favourites in colour but I wasn’t certain the B&W edit worked so well, so I’m very pleased you like it!
Sue
I have to say your photographs paint a picture of total isolation, cold and rather desolate….As you say, at least you were on a modern ship with all comforts!
Sarah Wilkie
In part that’s probably down to the B&W edits Sue. See what you think when you see some of these (and many more!) in colour.
Sue
Hmm, we’ll have to see, but I somehow think it won’t make much difference 😊