This beautiful hilltop town on the east coast of Sicily is understandably a magnet for tourists. Sitting high above the coast in the shadow of (very) active Mount Etna, it has everything you might hope for in such a town. Vistas of both sea and mountains; ancient ochre-coloured buildings glowing in the Sicilian sun; great restaurants and quality shopping; narrow lanes and bustling squares lined with cafés for people-watching; a small but beautiful cathedral; and to top it all an ancient Greek theatre still in use today.
I first visited the town in 1989, spending a week there with my husband as a base to explore north-east Sicily. Returning to the region this year with friends I found that they were naturally keen to see the city. And I was happy to go along and see how, if at all, it had changed. Unfortunately the weather was dull and with even a little rain, as you’ll see from my photos. But to be honest Taormina would look beautiful in any weather! I hope Jo will agree and will enjoy this Monday Walk.
My friend Jim drove us there from our nearby B&B accommodation, navigating the hairpin bends to a multi-storey carpark of the edge of town. Having parked we took the lift up to the top floor to emerge in an open area with a great view of the coast.
From here we took a very leisurely walk through the town. It was very busy although not as much so as I had anticipated; but it was only May. I dread to think what it is like in August!
A short distance along the main pedestrianised street, Corso Umberto, we reached the small piazza in front of the cathedral. In the centre is a Baroque marble fountain featuring mythical creatures. Its centrepiece is the symbol of the city of Taormina, a crowned centaur who holds the world in his left hand and the sceptre of command in his right.
Fountain in the Piazza Duomo
Duomo
We went into the small cathedral dedicated to San Nicolò di Bari. It was built around 1400 on the remains of a thirteenth century church, although its façade was rebuilt in 1636. It is relatively simple inside and was a cool and peaceful spot, contrasting with the busy streets outside.
Duomo di San Nicolò di Bari
Along Corso Umberto
After drinks in a café opposite the cathedral we continued our walk under increasingly cloudy skies. There were however plenty of interesting details to photograph, so the grey sky wasn’t too much of an issue. There was much that I remembered from my stay here with Chris back in 1989, although it was busier and even more touristy. Corso Umberto was lined with high-end clothes shops as well as those selling souvenirs, and we browsed in a few. On either side the steep side streets were quieter and prettier.
Along Corso Umberto
When we felt a few spots of rain we decided to stop for an early lunch. We found a great little restaurant, La Cisterna del Moro. It had a covered terrace and sea views where we enjoyed excellent pizzas.
The rain came to nothing so after lunch we continued along Corso Umberto and through an old stone gate, the Porta di Mezzo, to reach the main square, Piazza IX Aprile. From the belvedere here there are even better views of the coast. But the Chiesa di San Giuseppe here was unfortunately closed.
In and around the Piazza IX Aprile
Leaving the square we passed a sculpture of Oscar Wilde, who visited Taormina in 1898. He was charmed by its beauty and described it as a ‘lover’s paradise’. The rain held off as we continued to follow Corso Umberto, with plenty of photo opps along the way.
Side street and details
In the Largo Santa Catarina the Baroque church of the same name was also closed, as was the medieval Palazzo Corvaja. But in any case we had another sight in mind to round off our walk.
The Greek Theatre
We were aiming for Taormina’s most famous sight, the ancient Greek Theatre or Teatro antico di Taormina. It was built originally by the Greeks in the third century BC. They carved out the mountainside to create an amphitheatre in which their dramas could be performed. The backdrop to these dramas, more imposing even than the theatre itself, was Mount Etna, framed between the columns of the stage. Later, in the third century AD, the Romans remodelled the theatre, removing the stage to create a space for gladiatorial games.
Unlike much of the town I found that this had changed more since my 1989 visit. There was increased tourist infrastructure (visitor displays, access ramps, etc) but also increased prices: a hefty €14 entrance. Nevertheless, we went in, and although it was too cloudy for the famous view of Mount Etna it was still great to feel the atmosphere of those ancient stones and as Jim pointed out, imagine how many other bums had sat there over the centuries!
At the Greek Theatre
From here we slowly made our way back along Corso Umberto, pausing on the way for our first gelati of the trip. But I took no photos worth sharing as the rain started in earnest. We were glad to reach the carpark and return to our cosy B&B!
Postscript
On my return home I unearthed some scans I did a while ago of that 1989 trip to Taormina. They demonstrated that while the town has changed relatively little, the same cannot be said of me!
I last visited Taormina in May 2025
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Taormina.
57 Comments
Rebecca
Gorgeous! I was in Sicily several years ago, but I did not visit Taormina. Looks stunning among the hilltop, and it looks like it was a wonderful time! Thanks for sharing, Sarah 🙂
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Rebecca 😊 Taormina does indeed have a wonderful setting! My apologies for the delay in acknowledging this comment, but for some reason it ended up in my spam folder even though you were clearly logged in – WP can be so frustrating at times!
equinoxio21
I remember Taormina well. We went there in 1984, our 2nd daughter was barely a month old. Couldn’t find diapers her size…
It looks like it has weathered overtourism well? Wonder what Wilde would say today…
Sarah Wilkie
1984? You were there a few years before us then! I think it seems to be coping well with the tourist numbers on the whole, although as I said, maybe I’d feel differently if I’d visited at the height of the season. The multi-storey carpark on the edge of town may not be beautiful but it works well as a place for people to park without trying to drive the narrow streets. And maybe the fact that the shops are mostly high-end says something about the crowds it attracts?
Smitha V
Hi Sarah, I enjoyed seeing your pictures of Taormina. It must have been revisiting. We did that, last year, when we visited a hill-station in India, 25 years after the first time we were there.
Taormina looks beautiful and you look gorgeous in the 1989 pic. We did not visit Sicily. We stayed at Sorrento in Naples and loved it.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Smitha 🙂 I confess I like my 1989 self, apart from the horrendous perm! Sorrento is lovely too, although I’ve only visited on a day trip from Naples, not stayed there.
Smitha V
We stayed in Sorrento for four days and loved the place. Taormina reminded me of Sienna.
You look lovely with the perm- very chic, and you’ve aged beautifully like fine wine. XXX
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you 😊😘
Annie Berger
Enjoyed re-visiting Taormina through your text and photos, Sarah. Loved the poppy shot and the tiled stairs’ photo. BTW – you still look great since your previous visit. Did you ever think of doing a Before and After shot of you then and now, or did you only unearth those shots of you on your return?
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Annie 🙂 I did briefly think about getting one of my friends to photograph me by a lamppost in the main piazza, as I could remember having that old shot taken there, but I decided I didn’t want to see the comparison so directly!
Annie Berger
Impressed that you remembered the location of the previous photo! I’m sure the photo would have been equally flattering.
Sarah Wilkie
Taormina is a small place and the old part hadn’t really changed, so it was easy to recognise familiar spots even from so long ago 🙂
wetanddustyroads
I agree that Taormina looks beautiful, whether in bright sunshine or on a grey day. I recognised a few places in your photos and it brings back lovely memories. We all change, don’t we? We visited Taormina in 2011 and I’m trying to figure out what happened to that young girl 😂.
Sarah Wilkie
Glad to have brought back those good memories of your own visit 😀 I think we all feel the same about the person we used to be!
thehungrytravellers.blog
I’ve read numerous posts about Taormina, they all make it look and sound great, as does yours!
Sarah Wilkie
Numerous posts demonstrate that numerous people visit – but places are popular for a reason and Taormina is definitely worth visiting!
Natalie
Beautiful captures of Taormina, Sarah. Thank you for taking me back to Sicily. I visited in early to mid-May this year and thankfully it wasn’t too busy with tourists then. The groups I saw at the Greek Theatre and in town were Italian school groups.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Natalie 🙂 We were there only a few weeks after you, towards the end of May, but I think the fact that it was a Saturday probably added to the crowds. But it really wasn’t too bad – for instance, we got a table for five for lunch at the first restaurant we asked at!
Amy
Thank you for taking us there! Precious and beautiful photos of 1989. Thanks for sharing.
Sarah Wilkie
Always happy to take you along Amy – thank you 🙂
Christie
Taormina looks like a perfect place to wander around, although I’m sure it is much busier than in 1989.
I guess you unearthed some great memories along with those photos🙂
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you – tbh it was pretty touristy even back in 1989! But yes, some good memories there 🙂
the eternal traveller
You must have been appreciative of the driver on the bendy roads. This area looks quite beautiful. Sicily has long been on our list. Do you think it would be possible to see it without hiring a car? Is there enough public transport?
Sarah Wilkie
I was VERY appreciative that my friends were willing to tackle the driving, as I certainly wouldn’t be! Yes, you can explore to some extent by public transport. Do you follow Natalie the Explorer? She wrote about doing that recently: https://natalietheexplorer.home.blog/2025/05/30/postcards-from-sicily-italy/
the eternal traveller
I’ll have a look. Thanks for the link.
Suzanne
That must have been interesting to revisit and see if it ignited the same feelings and love of the place. I was trying to chose which image and location I enjoyed the most, I couldn’t as it’s Italy and what’s not to love. Not so sure about driving on those roads. I wonder how the public transport is to visit smaller places?
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Suzanne 🙂 I did enjoy seeing Taormina again but just for these few hours – I don’t think I’d want to spend a week there as Chris and I did back then. It’s got too touristy! Yes, you can definitely explore Sicily by public transport, but I don’t think you’d be able to get everywhere. Taormina has a station at the foot of the hill, on the coast, and there’s a bus terminal higher up on the edge of town, so you could get here for sure!
Suzanne
More than ever I really am put off with overly touristy places, even here in NZ. There seems to be an uprising of locals against it. Again it’s happening here with higher rents in touristy places.
Sarah Wilkie
It’s a big issue in some parts of Europe too, especially Spain, but Taormina hasn’t reached that point yet at least 😃
Suzanne
I didn’t think it had 🙂
Sue
Ah, this had me nostalgic! I visited Taormina on a trip to Sicily about seven years ago. A pretty enough place but too touristy now, I would say but that Greek theatre is absolutely stunning and I’m so pleased I got to visit it. Loved your 1989 scans!
Sarah Wilkie
Glad to have taken you back Sue 🙂 It IS very touristy, but too pretty not to visit I reckon!
Sue
Well, yes, I think I would largely agree
Tanja
beautiful stroll
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Tanja 🙂
grandmisadventures
Great pictures, how fun to compare visits from then to now
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Meg, glad you enjoyed this 🙂
margaret21
A lovely stroll, introduced by a great view in the featured photo.
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks very much Margaret 🙂 That’s the view from the Greek Theatre, looking back at the town.
Graham Stephen
lovely to see a glimpse of the 1989 sarah
⬻𓂀✧ ✬ღ☆ ∞ ♡ ∞ ☆ღ✬ ✧𓂀⤖
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Graham 🙂
Graham Stephen
🙇♂️
Monkey's Tale
I didn’t get a chance to visit Taormina when I was in Sicilly, years ago. It looks very charming, but too bad it’s gotten so busy. Love the old pictures! 😊 Maggie
Sarah Wilkie
It’s really worth visiting despite the crowds, for a few hours at least. It’s really pretty and the ancient theatre is stunning! Thank you Maggie 🙂
Teresa
Such a lovely town to stroll. But I guess my favourites are your photos from long time ago. Thanks for that share, so pretty!
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, it’s lovely for a stroll Teresa – and with those crowds you can’t hope to walk faster! Thank you for liking those old photos 🙂
Heyjude
Beautiful photos Sarah, we had a very brief visit to Sicily and Taormina from Malta for my OH’s birthday several years ago now and found it to be quite a charming, if busy, town. I loved the very colourful pottery. There is no way I would drive in Sicily (or Italy) but how did you get that fabulous feature photo?
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you very much Jude 😊 I should have mentioned that the feature photo was taken from near the Greek Theatre.
Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter
I love all the steps and the colourful flowers and plates. As for changing since 1989 – haven’t we all! My cousin just messaged with a picture of me at my 18th birthday party. As I said to her, I wouldn’t want to be that age again, but I wouldn’t mind that body!
Sarah Wilkie
Haha yes, I feel the same about the body! I was in my early thirties in those shots. But the 80s perm was definitely a mistake 😀
Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter
Been there, done that – in the late 70s. Catastrophic on top of the thickness and wave I already had, but everyone was getting a perm so I followed the herd.
restlessjo
Tempus fugit, and all that, Sarah…
Andrew Petcher (who I think you follow?) insists that Taormina is too tourist ridden to stay in these days, but I always liked the look of the location, with Etna looming. If it was good enough for the Greeks and Romans… He usually visits late October/November because the weather remains good. I noticed from Natalie’s recent post that it’s possible to stay in several locations while using public transport. We might consider that next year as Mick isn’t keen on car hire xx
Sarah Wilkie
Indeed, and it ‘fugits’ faster then ever these days 😀 Andrew has a point about Taormina but it’s so beautiful it’s worth braving the crowds at least in the shoulder seasons. The location is stunning! One of my friends who shared the driving, while used to driving on the ‘wrong’ side f the road (she visits Canada frequently) was rather taken aback by the narrowness of the roads in the towns and cities here. But she and her husband loved Sicily so they’re now researching options to visit without a car. We would always do the same, as I’m sure Chris wouldn’t get much fun out of the trip if he had to drive!
Anne Sandler
I just love your walks, and getting caught in the rain is fun, especially at lunch time! Nice old scans.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Anne 🙂 We hadn’t come prepared for rain so lunch seemed the best option – however the heaviest rain came later, when we were on our way back through the town, and rather precipitated (pun intended) our departure!
Egídio
Wonderful, wonderful, Sarah! Closing with those old scans was a great idea.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Egidio, glad you liked the old photos 🙂