I cannot begin to give you the flavour of the old Austrian Empire. It was a ramshackle affair but it was charming, gay, and I experienced more kindnesses in Trieste than ever before or since in my life.
James Joyce
The Irish author James Joyce lived for many years in the city of Trieste, from 1904-1920 (with a spell in Zurich during WW1). During those last years of the city’s Austro-Hungarian glory it was much-loved by Bohemian artists and writers such as Joyce. He moved there when he was just 22 years old and began writing some of his best-known literary works there, including most of the stories in Dubliners, first published in 1914, and A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man. Many believe that he was inspired by the city, even more than by his native Dublin.
I plan to share some more detailed posts about our much shorter visit to Trieste in due course. However, we’re off on a longer trip very soon so those posts are some weeks away, maybe more. Meanwhile here are a few shots that I felt would work well as black and white edits for this week’s Monochrome Madness.
All of these images were shot in colour and converted to monochrome with Nik Silver Efex Pro. In the latter, I favour a slight selenium tone as I feel it gives a crisper look to the images. A couple of these shots were naturally more or less monochrome, but I still used Nik Silver Efex to achieve that look.
My feature photo is of the ceiling of the Chiesa di Sant’Antonio Taumaturgo at the head of the Canal Grande.
Statue of James Joyce on a bridge over the Canal Grande
Lamppost near the Canal Grande
Sculpture on the portico of the Chiesa di Sant’Antonio Taumaturgo
Building detail, Via Dante Alighieri
Hercules wearing the Nemean lion’s skin, Casa della Portizza, Piazza della Borsa
Building detail, Piazza della Borsa
Building detail, Via di Cavana
Another building detail, Via Torino
The Castello di San Giusto
Belisario, 1887, by Urbano Nono, in the Museo Revoltella
Staircase in the Museo Revoltella
Staircase in the apartment block we stayed in
Sticker on a sign, San Giusto area
Trieste didn’t feel over-touristed, apart perhaps from the one day when there was a cruise ship in the port. But the sticker in my last shot suggests that some residents are starting to find it so, and resenting not just those who arrive on such ships but also those of us who stay a few days in the city. However, with one small exception we received very friendly and helpful service, both in the bars and restaurants we frequented and throughout our short stay. Everyone made us feel welcome!
I visited Trieste in September 2026
