I have been travelling on the ‘Tube’, the London Underground, all my life. I’m pretty sure my first journey will have been made before I can remember, while still a baby. Certainly I can recall many journeys from my childhood. As a small child I was scared of the escalators, so my father always had to carry me; a fear I’ve long since left behind me, thankfully!
Walking through the Tube’s many passageways you often pass doors and grilles that are locked shut. Have you ever wondered what is behind them? I recently had a glimpse into this hidden world on a tour that took us into areas of Charing Cross station normally closed to the public. It will make a very different Monday Walk for Jo, I hope.
Jubilee line history
Our tour started as we passed through one of those usually locked doors and found ourselves at the top of some stationary escalators. This was once the access point to the Jubilee line platforms, which are no longer in use. After descending the escalators we gathered for a talk about the history of this part of the station and of the Jubilee line itself. I knew some of this history as I’m old enough to remember when the line was built in the late 1970s, but other parts were new to me.
Our guide explained how it was originally going to be called the Fleet line. Although initially it terminated here at Charing Cross, it was eventually planned to be extended to the City, following the line of Fleet Street. The first phase was due to open in 1977, the year of Queen Elizabeth’s Silver Jubilee, and the name was therefore changed to the Jubilee line in her honour. Our guide quipped that the then chairman of London Transport probably hoped to get a knighthood as a result but it seemed the Queen was so uninterested in the new line that she sent her son (then Prince, now King) Charles to open it! That only happened in 1979 as inevitably there were delays.
By the time they could afford the extension, in the 1990s, the financial sector had largely moved from the City to Canary Wharf so it was decided to change the original plan and extend in that direction. It made sense to route the extension via Westminster (according to our guide it was also thought that would encourage Parliament to vote in the funding!), so the line moved away from Charing Cross and the platforms were sealed off.
Disused platforms
We moved on to one of those platforms, where we learned that today they, and the old tunnels, are used for a variety of purposes. They can hold spare trains, for instance when major events at Wembley or the O2 necessitate temporary additional services. They are also used for testing possible new developments. The blister paving at the edge of the platforms that assists partially sighted travellers was first tested here, as were the raised platform sections that provide step-free access to trains. Recently the disused station was used for a military training exercise, but most famously it is used for filming. Films shot here include Paddington and Skyfall, while TV series include Spooks, Sherlock and Killing Eve. The advertising posters we saw were all fakes, put there to create the impression that this was still a working station.
Fake advertising posters on the disused platform
Shooting Skyfall
We were shown a series of clips from these films, including one from Skyfall where Daniel Craig as James Bond slides down the slope between the escalators down which we had accessed the old station. We also saw him running through dark construction tunnels and emerging into a working one. Our guide told us that over 400 cast and crew were involved in the scenes shot here, and they were shooting for four months to produce eight minutes of film!
Looking up at the nearby set of escalators we could see where the raised signs that would normally prevent sliding down had been removed for the film (I’ve highlighted the marks left by the removal of the signs on my righthand photo below).
Disused escalators with missing signs highlighted in righthand shot
We were let into the secret of the filming of that scene. Daniel Craig slid down not on his bottom but on a slim wheeled toboggan that wasn’t visible to the camera, and the sequence was speeded up to look more dramatic. I found a description of the shooting and photo showing the set up here: https://www.007.com/focus-week-skyfall-underground-chase/. You can also see the stage set where they filmed the sequences that couldn’t be shot in the station, including Craig leaping onto the back of a moving train, and a dramatic crash. I also found the complete Underground sequence on YouTube if you’re interested to watch it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe0sPgwAhY0&t=231s.
Other uses of these platforms
On the parallel platform we saw one of the ‘trains’ used for works on the lines. This was a grinder, used to smooth out rough areas of the tracks to give a more comfortable and quieter ride. It can only be used at night when the service is closed, roughly between 1.00 and 5.00 AM, so there is only a small window in which to carry out the work. These abandoned lines make a convenient place to park equipment not currently in use.
Walking back up the stairs our guide pointed out more fake advertising there. A recent addition was a series of posters for Warburtons’ bread. The company had wanted to see how they looked in situ before proceeding to display them on the actual Tube system’s escalators.
Construction tunnel
The second area we were taken to was the actual construction tunnel used in filming Skyfall. It was built mainly using iron rings left over from the construction of the Victoria line, hence the 1960s dates we saw on them. The first part we entered, however, was lined with cheaper concrete slabs. This tunnel was used to remove the spoil dug from the station and Jubilee Line tunnels.
We walked the length of the tunnel which is about a kilometre long. It runs beneath Trafalgar Square and curves to go around the foundations of Nelson’s Column. At the end we reached a wall of concrete behind which is the shaft that was dug down from a pre-existing hole caused by a WW2 bomb. We were standing near the square’s Fourth Plinth; the shaft is now covered by the Sainsbury Wing of the National Gallery.Â
When we emerged from this tunnel into one of the current passageways we were told this was where Daniel Craig also emerged in that scene from Skyfall, so of course several of us in the group had to pose in that entrance!
Ventilation tunnel and shaft
The third area we visited took us to a ventilation grille directly above Northern line trains, from which we could watch trains arriving and departing, and feel how the grille aided the flow of fresh air in the station. We saw passengers alighting on the platforms with no idea that we were peering down on them from above, which was rather cool!
Looking down at the Northern line trains
At the other end of this tunnel we saw the ventilation shaft that provides that fresh air. It is roughly 60 metres (almost 200 feet) deep and has a diameter of about seven metres.
Looking up the ventilation shaft
When we finished the tour and were back at street level we tried to find the top of the shaft, which extends above the street almost as high as Nelson’s Column. We didn’t find it and I realised afterwards that we were looking in completely the wrong place!
I went back a few days later to look for it again. I’d pinpointed it on Google Street View, in Craven Street just next to the mainline station. Knowing now what to look for I found it easily, but it’s not surprising we didn’t spot it the first time as it’s cleverly designed to look like part of the adjoining building.
Ventilation shaft at street level, Craven Street
This tour is one of several offered by the London Transport Museum. I can highly recommend it if you want to see a part of London that few people get to see. Note please that I’m not receiving any reward for my recommendation.
47 Comments
Marie
This is very interesting – I’d love this tour……
Sarah Wilkie
It was an excellent experience, I definitely recommend it 🙂 I’m keen to do one of their other tours now, perhaps in an older station like Aldwych.
ourcrossings
Wow, this is truly fascinating, dear Sarah. I’ve been to London many times, but had no idea that places like Charing Cross station, which hide a network of abandoned platforms, secret construction tunnels, and clandestine Hollywood film sets, even exist. I guess you do learn something new every day. I have to put this on my list. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you very much Aiva 😊 I do recommend this or similar tours run by the London Transport Museum, especially if you’ve already done all the obvious sights in London and want to dig a little deeper (literally!)
equinoxio21
Amazing. Every time I step “down” into the London underground, I’m always surprised at how deep under it is. As a comparison the Paris Metro is much closer to the surface.
I liked the Transportation museum a lot last time we were in London. Very nicely put.
(And I see you’ll have a new PM any time soon… Best of luck.)
Sarah Wilkie
Some lines are very deep but there are also some more like the Paris Metro, such as the District and Circle. The Jubilee is one of the deeper ones so we were some distance underground here.
Yes, the PM merry-go-round continues. I feel Starmer did some things well, mainly abroad, but took his eye off the ball here. He brought in some unpopular policies, then u-turned but the damage was done. Burnham (the likely new PM) is inexperienced in national government and will have a more left-wing approach. Whether he’d be able to sell that to the wider population in a general election remains to be seen, but he’s not obliged to call one even though it can be argued he doesn’t have a mandate for a change in direction. I wonder how he’ll get on with certain other world leaders???
equinoxio21
An interesting perspective. A few leaders tend to focus on international issues, which are important, but not what they’ve been elected for…
No idea about Burnham, but I do suspect new blood is needed in international relations as well. e.g. Peter Magyar…
best wishes with Andy.
Sarah Wilkie
International issues are a big deal for us, especially at the moment. Post Brexit (grrrrr) we need to decide how close a relationship we want, and can have, with Europe. And with the US backing off from its role in NATO other members will need to fill the gap somehow. We’re under an obligation to increase defence spending at a time when investment is badly needed at home, to support struggling public services. And there are also the challenges of supporting Ukraine, standing up to Russia, and trying to maintain the so-called special relationship with the US while often not seeing eye to eye with the current president.
I would argue that all of that, as well as domestic issues of course, is exactly what they are elected for!
equinoxio21
I totally understand. France faces exactly the same issues, perhaps even worse finance-wise. And no-one seems to be able to reach any agreement.
And absolutely, that is what they’re elected for.
Now, Johnson is lurking to see when he can come back. And little Macron after he’s finished digging the hole France is in, seems to be thinking of coming back in 2032. Unbelievable…
Sarah Wilkie
Farage is the biggest risk here rather than a return of Johnson – no one is really talking much about him here.
grandmisadventures
How cool to see a whole different side of this station
Sarah Wilkie
It was very cool! I’ve lived in London pretty much all my life but I can always find something new and different to see or do 😀
ThingsHelenLoves
This is fascinating! I’d like to do one of the tours while I’m fairly close to London.
Sarah Wilkie
Glad to have inspired you 😀 I’m pretty sure you’d enjoy this!
wetanddustyroads
It looks like a really interesting tour – makes me think how little people actually consider what happens ‘underground’ 😉. Skyfall was my favourite Bond movie, and I remember that scene where Daniel Craig slides down the escalator. Hmm, Sarah Bond … doesn’t sound too bad!
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you 😀 This did feel rather like an insight into a secret world! I don’t think I’d make a very good Bond haha 😆
Jim Earlam
Really interesting read Sarah 😊 it’s fascinating what goes on under our feet that we know nothing about, I think Royal Mail has there own mini underground system shuffling mail all over London
Sarah Wilkie
Many thanks Jim 😊 The Royal Mail did have a very extensive underground rail network but I don’t know how much of it, if any, is still in use. If you visit the Postal Museum you can ride a stretch of it, now turned into a visitor attraction. I did it a few years ago with some friends – it’s rather fun!
Annie Berger
How brilliant of the London Transport Museum to offer behind the scenes tours of Charing Cross Station. Unlike you, I’m a big James Bond fan, so was intrigued to read about Craig’s use of the slide down the middle of the escalator and his exit into the passageway, Sarah.
Sarah Wilkie
Glad you enjoyed this s much Annie 🙂 If ever you come to London you should book a tour and see these passageways for yourself!
Leanne Cole
Wow that sounds like an amazing tour. I am loving photographing our underground stations right now, they are so interesting.
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, you would love this sort of tour I am sure Leanne 🙂 Is anything similar available in Melbourne I wonder?
Anne Sandler
What an amazing tour and history Sarah. Thanks for taking us along. Great photography, especially the leading lines on the escalators.
Sarah Wilkie
Many thanks Anne 😊 I always think the escalators offer great photo opps but they’re usually too busy with hurrying travellers so it was good to have the chance to take some photos at leisure.
Tanja
Very interesting tour. I like Bond movies so thank you for the inside info regarding the tube scene
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks Tanja 🙂 I haven’t seen many recent Bond films but I think I’ll definitely try to watch Skyfall to see how these scenes fitted into the plot.
Sue
A most interesting tool of the abandoned. Who knew what was behind closed doors!
Sarah Wilkie
Exactly! I’ve walked past doors like this in the Tube’s subways many thousands of times but never known what secrets they held 😀
Sue
Me too, but I got an idea in lockdown, as I did a Hidden London Virtual Tour
Image Earth Travel
What a fabulous tour, Sarah and one I would definitely put on my list to enjoy! Thanks for sharing this post. 🙂
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Nilla – glad you enjoyed it 🙂
the eternal traveller
How very interesting and different from the usual tours. The transport museum is one we haven’t been to so it would be a consideration for the next time we’re in London, although we have no plans any time soon. We find the tube so easy to use and navigate.
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, this is something rather different from the usual tour. The Transport Museum is excellent, though it’s quite some years now since I was there.
Vicki
Fascinating, Sarah. Thanks for sharing. It took me back to my first trip on the London underground in 1976. That was at the time of the first (well, I think they were first) bombings in the underground. I, naively thought the blackened ceilings and tops of the tunnel walls were remains of the bombings. Of course, it was merely seepage. (as an aside, I occasionally buy Warburton’s gluten free bread. It is made in the U.K., frozen and then shipped to Australia. It is thawed when I buy it, not still frozen. Seriously. Fancy buying an English-made loaf of bread in Melbourne, Australia).
Sarah Wilkie
I’m glad to have taken you back Vicki 🙂 However, if you’re thinking of the IRA bombing campaign, that started a bit earlier, in 1973 I think, and I don’t believe they ever targeted the Tube – their bombs, devastating as they were, were all above ground in various parts of the city and lasted right through to the early 1990s. Somehow we all lived with that possibility but carried on pretty much as usual, as if it could never happen to us! We even had a bomb in our local suburban shopping centre, Ealing Broadway. The Tube bombings were a different matter and were in 2005, detonated by Islamic State sympathisers – terrorist suicide bombers. I remember them far more clearly than the IRA attacks, as I was working in central London that day.
Suzanne
Travelling underground was such a novelty for this Kiwi lass way back in the day, and I’ve held on to that love and fascination with travelling by tube, with other trips to London. One day, I might even go on a history tour. Well worth the time, I think. Thanks, Sarah.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Suzanne 🙂 These tours are definitely worth considering if you’ve ‘done’ the obvious sights in London and want to see a different side of the city.
Monkey's Tale
How fun! I’m not a James Bond fan, but it made me think of the tv series Temple that I watched recently. It took place in an abandoned area of London’s subway. Maggie
Sarah Wilkie
We’re not really Bond fans either but I did think after this visit that I might watch Skyfall 😀 I wondered if that TV series could have been filmed in this station but I looked it up and apparently it was filmed in a completely disused one, Aldwych. It’s possible to do tours there too and I’d like to go on one some day.
Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter
That sounds absolutely fascinating!
Sarah Wilkie
It was – a real insight into Tube history and also some of the present-day operations 🙂
Marie
Great tour, Sarah. Was only one station closed when they redirected the line or is there a series of closed stations?
Sarah Wilkie
Just this one – and the station wasn’t closed as it also serves the Northern and Bakerloo lines, it was just this area of it that was sealed off. If you look at the photo of the old station guide for comparison, today the line runs from Stanmore as far as Green Park, just as it did then, but then goes through to Westminster and then south of the river via Waterloo and Southwark to Docklands and beyond up to Stratford.
restlessjo
That was pretty fascinating, Sarah. Constructing a Metro line is such a huge undertaking. There’s so much more of it now than in the days when I lived in London. I’ve never really enjoyed travelling underground but I like the bits out in the ‘burbs. I’ll have a look at YouTube later. Many thanks for a fun share xx
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Jo 😊 Having lived in London pretty much all my life and used the Tube from a young age I’ve never been bothered by being underground – I take it for granted. And it was fun to see ‘behind the scenes’ and also to be reminded about some London history I’d forgotten.
Yvonne Dumsday
What an amazing trip that was. Thankyou so very much for sharing. 😊
Sarah Wilkie
It was fascinating Yvonne 🙂 I’ve wanted to do one of these tours for some time, I’m glad we finally got around to it!