Architecture,  Finland,  History,  Monday walks,  Photographing Public Art,  Street art

Just one day in Helsinki

October 13, 2025 / 57 Comments

I often think how conveniently sized Helsinki is. It’s a human-sized city, small enough to be easily understood … Helsinki has quiet confidence … It’s calm but not boring, humble but not shy.

Samu-Jussi Koski, Finnish designer (quoted in the Financial Times)

When you only have one day to explore a city, being ‘small enough to be easily understood’ is a real plus point. And one day was all we had, on this occasion at least. But we really took to Helsinki, so maybe in the future we’ll come back for a more in-depth look.

I haven’t quite finished my Arctic diary series, but I want to break off for this one post and tell you about what we did on our way home. The Quark itinerary ended when we landed back in Helsinki after a flight from Longyearbyen, but they recommend that you don’t plan an onward flight home on the same day as Svalbard weather can mean flights are delayed. Ours wasn’t, but a landing scheduled for the early evening meant that it made sense to stay over. So we booked a couple of nights at a city centre hotel and planned to spend a day exploring a place neither of us had previously visited.

So let me take you on a Monday Walk around the city.

After a decent buffet breakfast at our hotel we walked along the nearby Esplanade (Esplanadi in Finnish). This is a long narrow park bordered by streets with elegant buildings. There were art installations here, part of the city’s Biennial 2025.

The Canadian Embassy in the Grönqvist Building, the Wasa Akti Bank, and a ‘Bug Rugs’ sculpture

Senaatintori

We continued to Senate Square, Senaatintori. I had booked a free city walking tour with Red Umbrella Tours and we were to meet our guide by the statue of Alexander II there.

In Senaatintori

Our guide was a young student called Stefan and he started by promising that he wouldn’t be telling us a lot of history, then spent 20 minutes doing just that! But it was interesting to learn how Finland had been part of Sweden for hundreds of years and later the Russian Empire. It had been granted some autonomy under Tsar Alexander II (hence the statue here). He had mandated that the capital be moved closer to the Russian capital, which in those days was St Petersburg, and that it be built in a similar architectural style. As I’d already likened the buildings in this square to that city I was pleased to have my first impressions confirmed. It was only in 1917 that the country gained its independence.

Stefan then set quite a fast pace, making it difficult to take photos other than at his stopping points. We saw the former Russian Orthodox cathedral, now Finnish Orthodox, and the controversial 1960s building nicknamed the Sugar Cube by locals. This was designed by Alvar Aalto and built from white Carrara marble, completed in 1962.

Uspenski Cathedral and the ‘Sugar Cube’

We learned about the Winter War during the winter of 1939/40, when the Soviet Union tried to reclaim Finland, leading to the latter sending all the babies in the country to safety in Sweden, some never to return. We also learned how, short of weapons, the Finns invented the Molotov Cocktail to fight back, which they did successfully. Stefan told us too how today there are thousands of shelters across the country,  built to protect people from a nuclear attack. They have sports facilities (currently used in the winter) and space for everyone in the country including visitors.

Art Nouveau

We stopped at the edge of the Art Nouveau district. I would like to have seen more of it, but Stefan did at least point out a building decorated by artist Tove Jansson, creator of the Moomins. I discovered with some later research that this was her childhood home. It’s possible Stefan mentioned this; he talked so much I’m sure I missed some things!

Tove Jansson’s childhood home, and a nearby door I loved

We walked past the harbour and through a fairly touristy-looking market, selling crafts and street food.

Market stall

From there Stefan led us to the rather grand station, designed by Eliel Saarinen and opened in 1919. According to Wikipedia this was chosen as one of the world’s most beautiful railway stations by BBC in 2013. The granite statues on either side of the main entrance are named Lyhdynkantajat (‘The Lantern Bearers’). They were designed by the sculptor Emil Wikström.

The head of each of the statues weighs about 1500 kilograms, the chest weighs about 6000 kilograms, and each arm weighs about 2000 kilograms.

Wikipedia

Lyhdynkantajat (‘The Lantern Bearers’)

Oodi

Our final stop on the walking tour was at the very modern library, Oodi, opened in 2017. Stefan took us inside and explained about the wide range of resources and activities here. The tour then broke up and we tipped him for his time, as is the norm on such tours.

Exterior of Oodi, also seen in my feature photos taken from the nearby park, Finlandiapuisto

The library has a couple of refreshment options. Chris and I went to the café on the top floor where we got coffees and a snack. We then went out on the terrace to take photos of the view towards the parliament building.

View of Parliament from Oodi

We also spent a little time exploring the library, photographing some of the details and videoing the robot book carriers. I wouldn’t have minded having one of them in my library assistant days!

Inside Oodi

Oodi robot

We had decided to visit the Church of the Rock in the afternoon, which some of our fellow travellers had recommended. So we walked from the library through a park area, Finlandiapuisto, where lots of barnacle geese were grazing, and past some very pretty flowerbeds.

Finlandiapuisto

We passed a statue of Kyösti Kallio, the fourth president of Finland (1937 to 1940), who led the country through the Winter War described to us earlier by Stefan.

Kyösti Kallio statue

Our route took us through some quieter streets with elegant old buildings.

Helsinki architecture

Temppeliaukio

The Church of the Rock (Temppeliaukio) is set into the granite on which Helsinki is built. It was designed by two architects, brothers Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen, and opened in 1969.

Outside the Church of the Rock (Temppeliaukio)

The entrance cost €8 each and was worth paying to see such an interesting building. According to Wikipedia:

The interior was excavated and built directly out of solid rock and is bathed in natural light which enters through the skylight surrounding the centre copper dome.

Inside the Church of the Rock (Temppeliaukio)

Kamppi

From the church we started to walk back towards the hotel. We passed the Natural History Museum with a large bear sculpture waving at us from the balcony! We walked through the Kampi district with its large modern shopping centre and rather beautiful Kamppi Chapel, also known as the Chapel of Silence. I was also struck by the Lasipalatsi Clock Tower and the surrounding dome-like area which seemed to be a popular spot for sitting and relaxing on this sunny day.

Natural History Museum, Kamppi Chapel and Lasipalatsi Clock Tower

I prefer a more conventional seat these days, so we stopped for a rather delicious berry smoothie in a pavement café nearby, which will have to suffice in lieu of cake for Jo! We had timed it well, as there was a very brief heavy shower as we sat under one of the café’s umbrellas.

From there we walked back to our hotel. Here, and elsewhere in the city, we passed cheerfully painted utility boxes. I’ll finish with a selection of my favourites as a contribution to Natalie’s Photographing Public Art challenge.

  • This article is also featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Helsinki.

I visited Helsinki in August 2025

57 Comments

      • equinoxio21

        October 26, 2025 at 01:58 Reply

        Maybe not clear in my mind? Most times when one travels in Europe, one finds tiny common details. e.g. the architecture in Vienna and Paris and London can be very different but there are common themes… sculpted heads above the doors for instance, even if the local styles differ. In Helsinki, in your photos, I couldn’t find common themes. Or maybe I sensed some “Soviet” influence? (God Forbid…)
        Another example, English and Dutch architecture are different but one can find some common elements. Bricks, window sills. In Helsinki, I didn’t find that.
        (I really should go…) 😉
        Happy Sunday.

  • Annie Berger

    October 21, 2025 at 13:26 Reply

    How could I NOT be impressed by your first shot, Sarah – that of the Canadian Embassy?! We used to go on the free walking tours but haven’t done that for years – sounds like Stefan was a good guide, even after the history lesson. In 2013, on our first trip abroad, Steven and I also stopped in Helsinki for a couple of days en route to crossing Russia on the Trans Siberian. I don’t remember the Art Deco buildings, only the Parliament and harbor area before taking a trip on the river. I loved your shots of the library.

    • Sarah Wilkie

      October 21, 2025 at 15:02 Reply

      Thank you Annie 🙂 We find these free walking tours are often a good option if you have limited time. I would like to have been able to get out on the water – something for a return visit perhaps!

  • Mick McCann

    October 16, 2025 at 02:52 Reply

    Regretfully, I never did get to Helsinki, as we were driving from Kirkenes to Kiruna and only saw the extreme north of Finland, near Inari. The other chance I had was getting the ferry from Tallinn in another year, and that didn’t work out either. Thanks for taking me on a tour of a lovely city that I always had on my radar.

    • Sarah Wilkie

      October 16, 2025 at 06:52 Reply

      Thanks Mick 😀 I’d considered a day trip from Tallinn when I was there with VT friends back in 2014 but decided there was more than enough to do in Tallinn itself. So I was glad to get there eventually!

  • wetanddustyroads

    October 15, 2025 at 16:54 Reply

    You definitely made the most of only one day in Helsinki, Sarah! You saw so much (and probably walked quite a few kilometers). Do you know what caught my attention? The two girls sitting with books in the library – that’s great to see.

  • Easymalc

    October 15, 2025 at 10:31 Reply

    Not wishing to diminish Finland’s capital, I think you’ve shown that spending a day there is adequate for most people. Just my opinion of course, but having said that, it might be different if you had a boat.

  • Image Earth Travel

    October 15, 2025 at 06:35 Reply

    Weird, I left you a comment, but not sure it went through.
    You definitely packed in loads on your walking tour. Sometimes, I think you see more with a guide instead of fumbling through a city independently. 😉

  • Rose

    October 15, 2025 at 04:35 Reply

    Wow you saw a lot of amazing things in Helsinki in one day. The painted utility boxes are certainly unique and a neat idea for cheering up the area.

  • Rebecca

    October 15, 2025 at 03:10 Reply

    I agree with you that Helsinki is just the right size to see most landmarks in a day– similarly, I only had a day (well technically, six hours) to visit Helsinki during a Baltic cruise excursion years ago, and I’m glad I got to see a lot of the city. The Church of the Rock is truly iconic, and it’s fascinating how a place of religion was built into a natural, geological site. The Sibelius Monument was also a favorite of mine, as I do enjoy the composer’s classical works. Thanks for sharing your brief, but fun time in Helsinki with us, Sarah!

    • Sarah Wilkie

      October 15, 2025 at 07:17 Reply

      Thank you. This will be my only Helsinki-specific post, though I may use photos from there for themes of course. But there’s one more Arctic diary post to come.

      • rkrontheroad

        October 15, 2025 at 15:01 Reply

        Btw, if you have any inquiries, I’ve found that leaving my comments in the Reader works better than on the page (although I do like to see the original layout). The Reader knows who I am. 😊

  • Heyjude

    October 14, 2025 at 18:39 Reply

    You saw a lot in one day, I bet you slept well that night. I would have loved to see more of the art nouveau district so I hope you have a return trip. And I wish we would decorate our utility boxes, they look so much more attractive.

  • Tanja

    October 14, 2025 at 16:11 Reply

    You used well your day in Helsinki. I agree, it is not too big so you can explore a lot in day. Next time you’re day take a ferry to Suomenlinna island, it is lovely. I visited Helsinki two years ago to meet up with my Finnish friend.

    • Sarah Wilkie

      October 14, 2025 at 12:55 Reply

      Yes, it made sense to spend a day here. We could have just stayed at the airport as we did on our way out to Svalbard, but it was good to take advantage of the opportunity to visit a city we’d never been to.

  • Teresa

    October 14, 2025 at 00:35 Reply

    By the looks of it, one day is really not enough. So many things to see and do. Love the Lantern Bearers and the robot is cute. And of course the utility boxes art!

  • Yvonne Dumsday

    October 13, 2025 at 22:14 Reply

    What a comprehensive account of one packed day. As a taster, I am sure it whetted your appetite for a longer, future, trip to which I look forward to hearing.

  • margaret21

    October 13, 2025 at 19:49 Reply

    I’ve had a hankering to visit here for some time. I had a Finnish pen friend when I was much younger and it started then I think. You’ve done nothing to put me off!

  • restlessjo

    October 13, 2025 at 19:45 Reply

    I love painted utility boxes, Sarah. So much more fun than drab grey or white ones. We often use the ‘free’ walking tours to get our bearings in a limited amount of time. They can be excellent but it really does depend who you get. We had an elderly history buff in Torun, but I felt sorry for him because the conditions weren’t easy in the rain. We had a much younger one in Seville and he threw the entire of Spanish history at us, but he did so in a very charming way. I always have an idea of what I want to see anyway, but sometimes they spring surprises. The library has a fabulous exterior, doesn’t it? I wasn’t so sure about the Church on the Rock. Interesting to see a city I don’t know a lot about. I’d always thought if I ever did a Baltic cruise I’d get to see it but, just in case I don’t, thanks a lot! xx

    • Sarah Wilkie

      October 13, 2025 at 21:02 Reply

      Yes, I wish there were more painted utility boxes here in the UK. I’ve seen them in some places (Shrewsbury springs to mind) but they’re not common. Stefan was a good guide in many ways – he really knew his stuff and told us the history from a local’s perspective which I always appreciate, but he went a bit fast.

  • Marie

    October 13, 2025 at 19:07 Reply

    Thank you for the city tour! Helsinki was never on my radar but I can see how you’d spend a nice day there. I do like the architecture – some of those buildings are really beautiful…

  • Natalie

    October 13, 2025 at 17:30 Reply

    What a lovely walk, Sarah. It brought back memories of my trip to Helsinki. I love your gallery of the utility boxes, some are so fun to see. Thank you for your public art share.

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