This beautiful hilltop town on the east coast of Sicily is understandably a magnet for tourists. Sitting high above the coast in the shadow of (very) active Mount Etna, it has everything you might hope for in such a town. Vistas of both sea and mountains; ancient ochre-coloured buildings glowing in the Sicilian sun; great restaurants and quality shopping; narrow lanes and bustling squares lined with cafés for people-watching; a small but beautiful cathedral; and to top it all an ancient Greek theatre still in use today.
I first visited the town in 1989, spending a week there with my husband as a base to explore north-east Sicily. Returning to the region this year with friends I found that they were naturally keen to see the city. And I was happy to go along and see how, if at all, it had changed. Unfortunately the weather was dull and with even a little rain, as you’ll see from my photos. But to be honest Taormina would look beautiful in any weather! I hope Jo will agree and will enjoy this Monday Walk.
My friend Jim drove us there from our nearby B&B accommodation, navigating the hairpin bends to a multi-storey carpark of the edge of town. Having parked we took the lift up to the top floor to emerge in an open area with a great view of the coast.
From here we took a very leisurely walk through the town. It was very busy although not as much so as I had anticipated; but it was only May. I dread to think what it is like in August!
A short distance along the main pedestrianised street, Corso Umberto, we reached the small piazza in front of the cathedral. In the centre is a Baroque marble fountain featuring mythical creatures. Its centrepiece is the symbol of the city of Taormina, a crowned centaur who holds the world in his left hand and the sceptre of command in his right.
Fountain in the Piazza Duomo
Duomo
We went into the small cathedral dedicated to San Nicolò di Bari. It was built around 1400 on the remains of a thirteenth century church, although its façade was rebuilt in 1636. It is relatively simple inside and was a cool and peaceful spot, contrasting with the busy streets outside.
Duomo di San Nicolò di Bari
Along Corso Umberto
After drinks in a café opposite the cathedral we continued our walk under increasingly cloudy skies. There were however plenty of interesting details to photograph, so the grey sky wasn’t too much of an issue. There was much that I remembered from my stay here with Chris back in 1989, although it was busier and even more touristy. Corso Umberto was lined with high-end clothes shops as well as those selling souvenirs, and we browsed in a few. On either side the steep side streets were quieter and prettier.
Along Corso Umberto
When we felt a few spots of rain we decided to stop for an early lunch. We found a great little restaurant, La Cisterna del Moro. It had a covered terrace and sea views where we enjoyed excellent pizzas.
The rain came to nothing so after lunch we continued along Corso Umberto and through an old stone gate, the Porta di Mezzo, to reach the main square, Piazza IX Aprile. From the belvedere here there are even better views of the coast. But the Chiesa di San Giuseppe here was unfortunately closed.
In and around the Piazza IX Aprile
Leaving the square we passed a sculpture of Oscar Wilde, who visited Taormina in 1898. He was charmed by its beauty and described it as a ‘lover’s paradise’. The rain held off as we continued to follow Corso Umberto, with plenty of photo opps along the way.
Side street and details
In the Largo Santa Catarina the Baroque church of the same name was also closed, as was the medieval Palazzo Corvaja. But in any case we had another sight in mind to round off our walk.
The Greek Theatre
We were aiming for Taormina’s most famous sight, the ancient Greek Theatre or Teatro antico di Taormina. It was built originally by the Greeks in the third century BC. They carved out the mountainside to create an amphitheatre in which their dramas could be performed. The backdrop to these dramas, more imposing even than the theatre itself, was Mount Etna, framed between the columns of the stage. Later, in the third century AD, the Romans remodelled the theatre, removing the stage to create a space for gladiatorial games.
Unlike much of the town I found that this had changed more since my 1989 visit. There was increased tourist infrastructure (visitor displays, access ramps, etc) but also increased prices: a hefty €14 entrance. Nevertheless, we went in, and although it was too cloudy for the famous view of Mount Etna it was still great to feel the atmosphere of those ancient stones and as Jim pointed out, imagine how many other bums had sat there over the centuries!
At the Greek Theatre
From here we slowly made our way back along Corso Umberto, pausing on the way for our first gelati of the trip. But I took no photos worth sharing as the rain started in earnest. We were glad to reach the carpark and return to our cosy B&B!
Postscript
On my return home I unearthed some scans I did a while ago of that 1989 trip to Taormina. They demonstrated that while the town has changed relatively little, the same cannot be said of me!
I last visited Taormina in May 2025
20 Comments
Tanja
beautiful stroll
margaret21
A lovely stroll, introduced by a great view in the featured photo.
Sarah Wilkie
Thanks very much Margaret 🙂 That’s the view from the Greek Theatre, looking back at the town.
Graham Stephen
lovely to see a glimpse of the 1989 sarah
⬻𓂀✧ ✬ღ☆ ∞ ♡ ∞ ☆ღ✬ ✧𓂀⤖
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Graham 🙂
Monkey's Tale
I didn’t get a chance to visit Taormina when I was in Sicilly, years ago. It looks very charming, but too bad it’s gotten so busy. Love the old pictures! 😊 Maggie
Sarah Wilkie
It’s really worth visiting despite the crowds, for a few hours at least. It’s really pretty and the ancient theatre is stunning! Thank you Maggie 🙂
Teresa
Such a lovely town to stroll. But I guess my favourites are your photos from long time ago. Thanks for that share, so pretty!
Sarah Wilkie
Yes, it’s lovely for a stroll Teresa – and with those crowds you can’t hope to walk faster! Thank you for liking those old photos 🙂
Heyjude
Beautiful photos Sarah, we had a very brief visit to Sicily and Taormina from Malta for my OH’s birthday several years ago now and found it to be quite a charming, if busy, town. I loved the very colourful pottery. There is no way I would drive in Sicily (or Italy) but how did you get that fabulous feature photo?
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you very much Jude 😊 I should have mentioned that the feature photo was taken from near the Greek Theatre.
Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter
I love all the steps and the colourful flowers and plates. As for changing since 1989 – haven’t we all! My cousin just messaged with a picture of me at my 18th birthday party. As I said to her, I wouldn’t want to be that age again, but I wouldn’t mind that body!
Sarah Wilkie
Haha yes, I feel the same about the body! I was in my early thirties in those shots. But the 80s perm was definitely a mistake 😀
Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter
Been there, done that – in the late 70s. Catastrophic on top of the thickness and wave I already had, but everyone was getting a perm so I followed the herd.
restlessjo
Tempus fugit, and all that, Sarah…
Andrew Petcher (who I think you follow?) insists that Taormina is too tourist ridden to stay in these days, but I always liked the look of the location, with Etna looming. If it was good enough for the Greeks and Romans… He usually visits late October/November because the weather remains good. I noticed from Natalie’s recent post that it’s possible to stay in several locations while using public transport. We might consider that next year as Mick isn’t keen on car hire xx
Sarah Wilkie
Indeed, and it ‘fugits’ faster then ever these days 😀 Andrew has a point about Taormina but it’s so beautiful it’s worth braving the crowds at least in the shoulder seasons. The location is stunning! One of my friends who shared the driving, while used to driving on the ‘wrong’ side f the road (she visits Canada frequently) was rather taken aback by the narrowness of the roads in the towns and cities here. But she and her husband loved Sicily so they’re now researching options to visit without a car. We would always do the same, as I’m sure Chris wouldn’t get much fun out of the trip if he had to drive!
Anne Sandler
I just love your walks, and getting caught in the rain is fun, especially at lunch time! Nice old scans.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Anne 🙂 We hadn’t come prepared for rain so lunch seemed the best option – however the heaviest rain came later, when we were on our way back through the town, and rather precipitated (pun intended) our departure!
Egídio
Wonderful, wonderful, Sarah! Closing with those old scans was a great idea.
Sarah Wilkie
Thank you Egidio, glad you liked the old photos 🙂